The Cove, The Road & The Knox

On Thursday, we played hooky from our reunion sessions and took a short drive up to the Billy Graham Training Center at the Cove east of Asheville.  The campus is on a beautiful, wooded mountain with lots of trees--a wonderful setting for focused training. The lower part of the campus contains one of the most lovely chapels in the USA.  The Chatios chapel was designed by Ruth Graham to serve as a quiet place of focus and reflection with the lower floor a visitor center describing the life and career of Billy and Ruth Graham.

Billy Graham Chapel in the Woods

Billy Graham was a very well known and influential pastor, who began his ministry in the late 1940's, and was a counselor to presidents from Eisenhower to Obama.  His son, Franklin Graham is the CEO of the ministry and they have two sets of lodging and a large training center, as well as a beautiful chapel and call center for the telethons that are still held.  Billy Graham passed last year at age 99. Ruth designed the chapel as a place of reflection and simplicity, so your focus is on God and His light that streams in through the high windows in rich colors from the forest. The pews and pulpits came from England and are over 200 years old.

Interior of Chapel

Most amazing is the Prayer room under the steeple and above the sanctuary with scripture painted on the walls, by a friend of Ruth Graham's. Our quiet time in the chapel brought a sense of peace as we turn west on our journey home.

Chapel Prayer Room

We learned more about this amazing man and the people he reached through crusades around the world for over fifty years.  Pamela heard Billy Graham speak at a outdoor crusade in Portland, Oregon in 1968, quite powerful and touching. When we were in Juneau, we worked on Franklin Graham's Samaritan's Purse ministry that sends shoe boxes full of gifts and necessities to children around the world.

Asheville to Clinton/Knoxville

Friday morning was the end of the Forest Service Reunion, and we drove the short distance west from Asheville to a campground north of Knoxville, Tennessee (a new state).  We got here in time to take a trip into Clinton and and old general store for classic ice cream milk shakes.  Since that didn't fill us up, we decided to have dinner in town.  Afterwards, Neil even had a nice, cool swim in the campground.

Home for Going On 58 Days!

On Saturday, we drove 20 miles into downtown Knoxville to see several historic sites.  We started at the Knoxville Visitor Information Center, which is also where the radio station WDVX broadcasts daily Blue Plate Special country music show.  We walked a few blocks to the Eastern Tennessee History Center where we spent over an hour looking at fascinating exhibits on the history of east Tennessee.  We learned several new aspects about this area, including the attempts to create a new state in the early 1800's called Franklin, the split with the rest of TN as the eastern part of state wanted to join the Union in the Civil War, the beginning of country music in this area with such stars as Tennessee Ernie Ford, Dolly Parton, Chet Atkins, Flat and Scruggs, Homer and Jethro, and many others who call east Tennessee their home.

Alvin York of Sergeant York Fame Was from East TN

Bristol Speedway is in East TN

East TN is also where Bristol Speedway is located.  This poster is as close as we got to this NASCAR venue--sorry, Seth.

TN Ernie Ford Was from East TN

We also saw the original long rifle owned by Davy Crockett.  It turns out that he sold it so he could buy a courting horse.  I guess you could say that he traded in "Betsy" on a new model.

We also learned that the Oak Ridge Project during WWII was instrumental in helping Los Alamos develop the atomic bomb.  The town of over 16,000 was created in just two months. It is still a government research facility.  We walked through historic Knoxville, then decided to have lunch at a Bar and Grill on Gay Street.  It was game day for the University of TN and it seemed like almost everyone (not us) was wearing orange--the main color for the TN Volunteers, and its fight song is "Rocky Top" and their mascot is Smokey--no, not Smokey Bear, but a Bluetick Coonhound named Smokey.

Pamela Enjoying a Peach Soda

It was a very good lunch, which we followed up with a stop at a historic ice cream parlor (anyone noticing a pattern here?).  If we weren't full before, we were by the time we finished our soda's and milkshakes. We wanted to see Fort Dickerson, one of the key Union forts that repelled the Confederate assaults on Knoxville during the Civil War.  The lower part of the low mountain area is now covered in trees and they are fighting hard to keep kudzu from completely covering the tall hill that was the site for gun emplacements to protect Knoxville.

Click on the Map for a Larger Image

Three Inch Union Gun at Fort Dickerson

The fort was one of three on the east side that Union troops defended.  It was a very steep hill that had trenches and pits dug to keep Confederate troops from being able to make a successful charge.  We did not know before our visit that Knoxville was such a pivotal battle in the Civil war.

We drove back to the campground with stops at a hardware store, gas station, and Walmart before we got to our home away from home.  It has been a pleasant two night stay here, and we move on tomorrow on a short drive to Nashville, where we will be for several days.  We know we are heading west, because tomorrow we have to change our clocks to Central Time.  We updated our RV map by adding Tennessee tonight.

This should get you up to date on our travels.  Best wishes,

Neil and Pamela

Opposite of our RV -- Biltmore House and Gardens

Wednesday was field trip day of reunion and we chose Biltmore House and Gardens for our tour.  We were two of 100 who were able to go. This is the largest privately owned house in USA, with a 250 room chateau, completed in 1895 as a country retreat for George and Edith Vanderbilt.

Biltmore from the East Showing Some of the Gardens

George Vanderbilt loved the mountain vistas and soon purchased over 100,000 acres for home, fishing and hunting, horseback riding and forests to scientifically manage to produce income and maintain the view to the west. He then hired the two leading experts to design his home and gardens: Richard Morris Hunt known for creating large country houses and chateaus and Frederick Law Omstead to create a series of gardens (he designed NY's Central Park). It took four years to blast off the top of the mountain, create a modern village at the base for the over 2,000 workers who labored to build the chateau and gardens. He also hired Gifford Pinchot to survey the western estate and design a forestry program. Gifford left after three years to become the first Chief of the Forest Service.

Two Years into Building with Walls Going Up

Today, the estate is about 8,000 acres. Just before George died in 1914, he was in negotiations to sell 80,000 acres to the US Forest Service. His widow Edith completed the sale in 1920 for what became the Pisgah National Forest. 

George Owned Land As Far West As He Could See from theChateau

Our tour included a visit to the rarely seen west side of the estate to look at their forestry and farming programs, with opportunity to discuss with Biltmore staff about the businesses that help make the estate profitable. They actively harvest pine, oak and other hardwoods.

Our Tour Group in Biltmore Forest

The estate includes a well established winery (producing over one million bottles a year and yes we bought several bottles), two hotel properties on the grounds, six restaurants and several adventure tours of the estate by Segway, carriages, horses, or Land Rover.  They even raise all the lettuce and vegetables (in greenhouses) that is consumed on the estate at the restaurants, as well as organic beef and sheep.

View of Some of the Grape Vines on Estate

We have been to Biltmore House in the past, but it was more than twenty years ago. The family have expanded the areas of the house open to visitors and developed an extensive audio tour of nearly all of the rooms.  Over one million people come each year.

Formal Dining Room with Fireplaces and Massive Pipe Organ at Ends

Today, you can view four levels of the chateau; three floors of living areas and the basement where the kitchens, larders, bowling lanes, and swimming pool are located.  We only had about two hours to see the chateau and gardens, which is not enough.  We could not drive our own car in, so we walked through the house areas taking photos and asking questions of the guides in each room. 

Library with Over 10,000 books

Bedrooms took up most of the second floor, each with their own bathroom with hot and cold running water, which was quite modern for the early 20th century. The third floor was for guests, with bathrooms and their own sitting room, larger than most of our home in Oregon.

Guest sitting room or parlor

Chihuly glass exhibits were in the atrium of house as well as gardens. As usual, the vibrant glass sculptures add to the space and compliment the architecture. 

Chihuly Glass in Atrium Near Entrance of House

We captured this large blue exhibit next to house before moving out into the gardens. 

Vibrant Shades of Blue Next to Stone House

We looked forward to seeing is the Dale Chihuly glass exhibits around the Biltmore House and in the Gardens. Dale and wife visited with team to see all the possibilities to enhance the gardens during the summer, both in daylight and after dark.

Most of the Outdoor Sculptures Outside Were Over 20 feet tall

Glass Along the Garden Wall

We also had time to visit the stables area, which today has a variety of shops. So, we tasted chocolates, some wine and get tried the "best in the east" vanilla ice cream.  Chase Pickering was right, the Biltmore vanilla ice cream was very good!

It was cloudy and threatened rain for most of the day, but it held off until just about the minute we got back on the bus.  It then rained pretty heavily as we drove back to the hotel. Even the gargoyles at drain pipes were interesting.

A Tribute to Stone Masons Outside

All in all, it was a great day with some new sites and older memories.  We hope you enjoy this "tour".  We will share more about the Billy Graham Center in a different post.  Thanks for tuning in.

Neil and Pamela

Asheville Forest Service Reunion

Thru the Smokies and Down Into Asheville

We had an uneventful (the best kind) drive south on I-81 and down into Asheville, NC.  We drove through some rain squalls over the Smokey Mountains and the Appalachians.  It was about a four hour drive and we got to the reunion hotel around 1700.  We were able to park the RV at the back of the property and checked in just in time to attend the opening reception.

Over the Appalachians at 3800 Feet

We have already met several friends and colleagues who we worked with in Alaska and Washington, DC and from the national teams that we both served on. 

The reunion is held every three years at different Regions of the Forest Service.  We attended the last one in Vail, CO and will probably go to the next one at Lake Tahoe, CA.  The reunion has sessions on Forest Service History, current management challenges, research and the wide variety of resources that embody 191 million acres of public land under the care of the U.S. Forest Service. 

Chase Pickering of the Vanderbilt Family

On of today's speakers was Chase Pickering who is a great, great, grandson of George Vanderbilt and serves as the marketing manager for the Vanderbilt Estate, hotels, wineries, and other enterprises.  His was an interesting historical presentation and a good introduction to our field trip tomorrow to Biltmore House and Estate.  It is an all day field trip so we hope that the rain holds off for a while.

Updating the RV Map in Asheville

Today we updated the RV map  during a dry spell in Asheville, and we are beginning to fill in a lot of the map and will capture several more states on our way west from here.  Here is what it looks like as of today:

We Wish We Had Diverted to North Dakota, But You Can't Do Them All at One

Tonight, we decided to take a break from the convention meals and went to the Ichiban Restaurant in Asheville, where we both had steak and scallops, along with some cold sake.

Hibachi Steak on the Grill

We will be here until Friday afternoon when we move west towards Nashville, TN.  We will probably post some photos from Biltmore tomorrow, but no promises.  Best wishes,

Neil and Pamela

Laying Back In Blacksburg

Misty Mountain Campground--With the Rain, We Were Glad to Be On a Mountain

On Friday, we left our campground near Charlottesville, VA and headed up the mountain towards interstate 81 south.  The road up Mount Acton was very steep, and as we headed up it turned to dense fog and we slowed down because of the hill.  We had our lights on and as we slowed down, put on our flashers.  You never know if the people behind you can see you well enough.  Anyway, we got over the summit and it turned clear and sunny on the other side as we drove towards I-81.

Once Again, A Very Short Drive--Neil Is Getting Spoiled

The route south on I-81 was rolling hills and good driving.  It turned warm again, with temperatures in the mid eighties (at least that is warm to us).  

We rolled into Blacksburg in the early afternoon to Andy and Connie's home outside Blacksburg.  Andy is a professor at Virginia Tech University and Connie is a nurse.  They have a very nice, custom home, that is built on a hillside with a very steep driveway.  We unhooked the Toad at the cul de sac and backed the RV down the steep, gravel driveway to a parking area that they have about half way down.  We got it parked just fine, but it was too steep to level, but we are staying in the house in a spare bedroom, so we did not need to be level.  It turns out that this weekend is the first time in 53 days that we haven't slept in the RV.  That is nice when the heavy rains come through as they have been doing. 

During the RV and Toad shuffle, Neil lost his key ring with his key fob, house key, key ring cards like BiMart and Good Sam Roadside Assistance.  The next day, we searched the cul de sac, driveway, house and Toad to try to find the keys, but no luck.  Then today (Sunday), Neil got a call from Good Sam in Colorado.  They were called by someone who said that they had our keys.  He was a neighbor of Andy and Connie's and found them while walking his dog early Saturday morning.  We connected, and have our keys back!  What a blessing.  The lesson is that you should have a name or phone number on the key ring somewhere.  He had called Good Sam with the number off the keys and they called us.  

On Saturday, Andy took us to the Farmers Market in downtown Blacksburg, where we had crepes and bough some other things.  Andy then took us to the Virginia Tech University campus.  He is a professor of fisheries there and a Forest Service employee in charge of the Coldwater Fish Lab on campus.  He has students in the field (and streams) from Puerto Rico to Alaska and throughout the Appalachians.  

He then took us on campus to show us the April 15th memorial to the thirty two students and faculty who died due to a gunman on campus.  It was a very nice memorial and campus.

April 15 Memorial on Virginia Tech Campus

Later that day, we all went to Giles County to the Palisades Restaurant in Eggleston, VA. It is near the New River Gorge and is a newer restaurant in what was the old general store.  The meal and company was outstanding.

Pamela's Mahi Mahi Dinner

Neil's Rib Eye Dinner

It was a wonder full dinner, with two bottles of wine and dessert.  So it was a very fulfilling night with great company.  It is good to be able to visit friends and pick up where you left off at your previous visit.

Connie, Andy, Neil and Pamela at Palisades in Eggleston, VA

We have had a wonderful visit in Blacksburg and with Andy and Connie.  We did see a few strange sites that you will get extra credit for if you can send us an email and identify it.

What the Heck Is This Thing?

We are looking forward to Asheville, NC and the US Forest Service Retiree Reunion.  We always see old friends and colleague at these events, which are held every three years.  We are also looking forward to staying in a hotel with all of the amenities, before we then move on to Nashville and points west.  Thanks for tuning in,

Neil and Pamela

Back in Time to Jefferson's Monticello

Today was an enjoyable, historic day as we visited the mountain top sprawling Mitchie Tavern and nearby Monticello.  We are only 18 miles from Monticello, so it was a short drive into Charlottesville and then up the mountain to Mitchie Tavern, which first opened in 1784.  You wind up the mountain beyond here to reach Jefferson's Monticello.

Mitchie Tavern

Mitchie General Store and Water Wheel

Mitchie Pottery Building

Less than a mile up the hill from Mitchie Tavern is the entrance to Monticello (which means little mountain).  We arrived there around 1330 and looked around the visitor center before our 1430 behind the scenes tour.  They now offer several different types of tours, a change from our last visit.

 

Monticello area with house in middle and extensive gardens on left

We were part of a small group of about a dozen, with a very experienced guide who had worked there about eighteen years. He not only knew his history, but added humorous anecdotes that brought the family to life.  It has been twenty years since our last visit, and they have expanded the out-buildings, added a typical cabin for field workers and more (outbuildings, exhibits, expanded gardens, etc) as well as being able to visit the second and third floors of the historic house.

The garden or southwest side of Monticello

The image on the nickel and what most of us think of is really the back side of the house, with entry to the expansive gardens, both ornamental and vegetable. Today, Jefferson is considered somewhat of an obsessive compulsive personality. He recorded weather observations twice a day for 40 years, created a wooden machine to copy every letter he wrote, so he could keep a copy, knew five languages, read books in French, Latin and English at the same time, a proficient violin player, first paleontologist with a large North American mastodon named for him (and the jaw of it is in the front hall), invented the cipher wheel used by the military for 150 years, invented many time saving devices shown in the home such as a seven-day self-winding clock, bicycle chain double-door opening, and two types of dumb waiter--one for food and one for wine.

Pamela with a favorite quote of Jefferson"s

One of our favorite historical points is that when the British burned much of Washington, DC in 1812, he donated his 6,500 library of books, that become the start of the Library of Congress. He then went on to collect another library of over 2,000 books, at a time when books cost more than a bottle of wine, a night in a tavern or a month of tradesman wage. Man after Pamela's heart! 

About 25% of the "kitchen" garden on side of house

Jefferson was a scientist, who loved nature, experimenting in the garden and created a 1,000 foot-long garden made from soil taken from top of mountain to flatten it for the house. Of the over 300 fruits, vegetables and herbs in his garden and orchard, many were new to America such as tomatoes, artichokes, rutabagas, broccoli and kale. The garden was divided into three sections based on what part of plant was harvested:  fruits such as tomatoes, roots like beets and leaves such as lettuce. He kept meticulous records on what grew well and did not, importing seeds and plants from all over the world, including this unusual flower below.

Late summer blooming Cockscomb in garden

Our tour took us up narrow, winding, nine-inch tall steps to the second floor, where the rest of the family slept, only Jefferson slept on the first floor of the 11,000 square foot home. After his wife died, he asked daughter Martha Jefferson Randolph to come live and serve as mistress of the house. She came with husband and children. She home schooled her children, with help from dad, managed all the house servants and served as hostess for all guests.

Martha's bedroom on second floor

Dad however was very controlling and she complained about her "alcove" bed to Jefferson in actual letters (while he was President) for over a year, before he bought her this bed. In case you are wondering, her husband has some mental issues and slept on the third floor. But, they did have eleven children, over half while living here. She also complained about steep and narrow stairs, so when pregnant, she slept on first floor. We agree about how narrow and tight the stairs are. In fact, so narrow, that some large pieces of furniture had to be put together on the second and third floors. 

Us in the Dome Room

A real highlight of the two-hour tour was time in the Dome, the only place we were allowed to take photos. He designed the house based on the Greco-Roman architecture he really loved, while he served in France as Minister, first under Benjamin Franklin and then as lead ambassador. He was the architect for this home and incorporated several inventions, such as window skylights that opened with counter-weights, and the dome skylights, two of which have mirror surfaces on the bottom half, cause those two windows looked into bedrooms in the house. 

Grand-children's hidden play room off dome

The surprise was when our guide opened the doors in the dome to show us the play room that overlooked the south lawn and gardens. The grand kids held tea parties here and we could see the original hard pine beams of the house, all hand tooled before put in place. One of the big changes in the tour since we have been here, is the knowledge shared about the enslaved people who worked the plantation (close to 150) and the truth of the six children that Jefferson fathered with Sally Hemmings, who was his wife's half sister. There is a separate exhibit on Sally Hemmings and her children, who were freed when they became twenty-one and went on to have families, establish churches, and build successful businesses as blacksmiths and joiners (furniture carpenters).

Round Windows from Dome Room

The tour was a full two and a half hours in length, with time for questions and discussions.  It was great to have an experienced tour guide, and to see parts of the house that were closed off to tourists only three years ago.  After the tour, we returned to the the visitor center and watched a short movie and then--where else?--the extensive gift shop.  Pamela found several lovely gifts and a few things she could not live without.

Neil with His Pal, Tommy, who was 6' 2" tall

After leaving Monticello, we stopped at another Wegmans huge Grocery Store and found a two unique to Virginia wines. We did not buy the first, but nuts of the second brand, which seemed safe!

Tomorrow, we have a short drive down to Blacksburg, VA where we will stay with friends Andy and Connie for the weekend.  We are looking forward to catching up and sharing some of our collected food and wine on the trip. Next blog entry will likely be Monday when we arrive in Ashville, North Carolina.

Neil and Pamela